Our weekend began Thursday evening with a Wine and Dine Dinner by locally celebrated chef Joachim Textor at the Semiramis InnerContinental Hotel. We got a bonus when we arrived. A bridal couple was being escorted by enthusiastic (and very loud) drummers into a hall where the reception would take place. The bride was dressed in a long white dress and full head covering, topped with a sparkly tiara. Guests were attired in everything from formalwear to blue jeans.
Our dinner was a series of courses with numerous elements and ingredients paired with wines. "Dust" seems to have replaced "foam" in international cuisine since I went to Capetown with Stro. Our dessert plates were covered with a swirl of pistachio dust, with the main attraction being a pistachio mousse surrounded by dots of pomegranate syrup. It was very rich and by that time (after four other courses and paired glasses of wine) I was able to taste it but hardly finish it. The best part of the meal was our company--four Egyptians, one of whom works with Denise, her brother (trained as a lawyer but now in private banking in London), a professional singer/actor, and a physician specializing in dietetics but who spends every free moment making films. They regularly patronize these gourmet meals and follow the key chefs around town. After dessert was cleared away they ordered espresso (close to midnight) and 3 of the 4 smoked small cigars. That was our cue to leave. I have not been up that late (except to finish a compelling book) for a l-o-n-g time.

Friday and Saturday are the days off for people who work in offices. So Denise was free to sleep in and to show me around Zamelek, which frankly is much easier with someone who knows where she is going. I had studied the map and thought it would be a piece of cake. I got oriented from the map and even learned a few street names. Then when I went out alone I was disoriented within about three blocks. This place is much harder on the ground than it seems like it will be. Sidewalks are a disaster--the levels keep changing and the distance from sidewalk to street or driveway is often at least 12." It is not even summer and the dust covers cars, the leaves on trees, the flowering cabbages at a florist shop, everything. Denise reports that in warm weather when the windows are open a film of dust--even on the 10th floor--covers all surfaces. Nevertheless there is always something new to see and think about, like this sign for the Honeymoon Tailors next to a store we visited.

I am impressed by several healthy food outlets--either retail shops or small restaurants. Yesterday we lunched at a traditional (not healthy) place called Zooba. We brought home at least half of the whole-grain "koshary"and beet salad we ordered. Koshary is a combination of all things wonderful--whole grain wheat, lentils, tiny chickpeas, pasta and topped with a delicately spiced tomato sauce and crispy fried onions. Today we had lunch at InSeason, which offers (ALL in English) a variety of healthy drinks made from fruits and vegetables and a boatload of Build-Your-Own Salads as well as some fixed salad combos. They also have Greek yogurt (otherwise hard to find) parfaits. Other stores that sell nuts and coffee also sell various grains and seeds as well as my favorite Dutch treat, stroopwafels.
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| Exterior of Anglican Cathedral |
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Cathedral interior with moveable seating |
Yesterday our shopping focus was made-in-Egypt crafts and we went to three different stores, the last at the Anglican Cathedral. This is the only place I have seen public toilets. The church itself was built in the 1970s with the unfortunate influence of Russian architects. It sits in a neighborhood full of antique stores, most of which offer very ornate furniture, clocks, and lioghting fixtures--think Louis XIV.
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| Dresses for Naomie and Klavna |

Today we focused on Egyptian cotton and jewelry. I found two dresses and a tee-shirt for my soon-to-be-grandchildren in Congo. They are very high quality cotton and all three cost only about $25. The Magic of Egypt strikes again. We visited an Azza Fahmy store in the neighborhood in search of a birthday gift for Lily. Azza Fahmy is one of the top jewelry designers in Egypt, and her work often features both gold and silver as well as gems (often diamonds). Her current pharoahnic collection is stunning. Go here to see more: http://www.azzafahmy.com/?user_store=egypt
Finally we thought we would finish the day walking along the river and finding a café from which to watch the boats go by. Alas, we could not find a vacant table but it was a nice walk and we finally found a spot where we could get a mint lemonade. This is a local specialty which tastes just like it sounds, with lots of minty flavor. Very refreshing and quite cold. Along the river, which must be super prime real estate, there are several stretches of ruins--of old clubs or restaurants, perhaps. Several boats ply the river for both sightseeing and for commuting. We saw the equivalent of a bus station for boats, which suggested they are used regularly as public transportation, kind of like the Baltimore Harbor taxis.
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