Day 2 was a full-immersion experience in Egyptian history and Coptic Cairo. At the end of the day, I felt like Peter's grandsons Bay and Klaus looked after climbing up to Lonesome Lake--sort of shell-shocked.
Initially my plan was to go to Giza to see the pyramids and sphinx, but the weather forecast was for rain and grey skies so we took the indoor route instead.
My guide for the day was a guy named Nadir who speaks English understandably and is very well-versed in Egyptian history (I actually have no way of knowing how well-versed he is; but he convinced me). He is married and has three children, a girl 13, and boys 11 and 9. His daughter corrects his English all the time, he says. He is also a remarkably calm and patient driver in what can only be described as a nightmare of Cairo's traffic.
Our morning was devoted to the Egyptian Museum, which sits on Tahrir Square and was an architectural splendor in 1901 when it opened. Over the years the building has not been maintained well but the holdings remain astounding, from the King Tut gold room to the mummy rooms. When I say "not maintained well" I mean my guide could write 3000 in the dust of a glass case to tell me the item in it was that old. A new museum has been under construction for eight years and apparently is now on hold until more money appears. Hopefully it will include a budget for dusting.
My feet and knees were in full protest at the end of three hours of standing and walking on marble floors and climbing stairs. I wasn't sure I would remember a thing but it turned out to be very good sequencing for me to see the museum before going on the cruise (next post).
As with every public site or area I have seen to date, there was visible security at several points approaching the museum--scanners, guys with menacing-looking weapons. How effective it is is another question. But I have been patted down, my purse glanced at and walked through many scanners. The airports similarly have very visible security--you cannot get in the door without a boarding pass and ID. You go through about 3 security checks before you get to the gate area. Generally shoes must be removed but my water bottle with liquid in it sailed through every scan without comment.
After the museum, Nadir and I ate Egyptian fast food (chicken showarma sandwiches) in the car midday. He triple parked on a five lane road and ran into a popular sandwich spot for the lunch. This double and triple parking habit is widespread and you can imagine what it does for traffic. This also provides employment for guys who watch your car while you wait for your fries.
Then we moved to Coptic Cairo. No, this is not where the bombing was. Coptic actually refers to a period in history before the Arabs (Ottoman Turks) moved in but has become synonymous with protestant Christians affiliated with the Eastern Orthodox Church. We saw the Hanging Church, built on a Roman Wall, St. Barbara's and the huge Church of St. George, as well as associated special chapels named for different saints. They are of varying sizes and levels of gilt. All prevented visitors from going beyond the rood screen or into the altar area, but in St. George's we could see into it. The silver altarpieces where blindingly well polished.
On the streets women are mainly dressed in what might be called dowdy clothes and wearing a headscarf that fully covers their hair. There are some who wear full cover, including all except eyes, but I have seen no one with the eye veil as well. Women certainly drive cars and hold jobs outside of home. Some of the younger ones are decked out in tight jeans and high-heeled boots (but have the head scarf in place). Men are dressed in anything from a western suit to a jellibaya, with most in slacks and a shirt.
The city has a population of about 22 million, so the realities of any big city are present--it is loud, smoggy, traffic is a mess. But where Denise lives on Zamelek it is more like a quiet urban neighborhood you can walk around most of the day. Importantly, the many trees offer shade.
Initially my plan was to go to Giza to see the pyramids and sphinx, but the weather forecast was for rain and grey skies so we took the indoor route instead.
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| Traffic in the rain |
My guide for the day was a guy named Nadir who speaks English understandably and is very well-versed in Egyptian history (I actually have no way of knowing how well-versed he is; but he convinced me). He is married and has three children, a girl 13, and boys 11 and 9. His daughter corrects his English all the time, he says. He is also a remarkably calm and patient driver in what can only be described as a nightmare of Cairo's traffic.
 |
| Egyptin Museum on one side of Tahrir Square |
My feet and knees were in full protest at the end of three hours of standing and walking on marble floors and climbing stairs. I wasn't sure I would remember a thing but it turned out to be very good sequencing for me to see the museum before going on the cruise (next post).
As with every public site or area I have seen to date, there was visible security at several points approaching the museum--scanners, guys with menacing-looking weapons. How effective it is is another question. But I have been patted down, my purse glanced at and walked through many scanners. The airports similarly have very visible security--you cannot get in the door without a boarding pass and ID. You go through about 3 security checks before you get to the gate area. Generally shoes must be removed but my water bottle with liquid in it sailed through every scan without comment.
After the museum, Nadir and I ate Egyptian fast food (chicken showarma sandwiches) in the car midday. He triple parked on a five lane road and ran into a popular sandwich spot for the lunch. This double and triple parking habit is widespread and you can imagine what it does for traffic. This also provides employment for guys who watch your car while you wait for your fries.
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| Inscription at the Hanging Church that assures those who enter (those who thirst) of refreshment. |
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| Door to the Hnaging Church |
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| Silver altar elements from behind a wooden gate in the rood screen--see dark cross, which isat the center of the gate. |
On the streets women are mainly dressed in what might be called dowdy clothes and wearing a headscarf that fully covers their hair. There are some who wear full cover, including all except eyes, but I have seen no one with the eye veil as well. Women certainly drive cars and hold jobs outside of home. Some of the younger ones are decked out in tight jeans and high-heeled boots (but have the head scarf in place). Men are dressed in anything from a western suit to a jellibaya, with most in slacks and a shirt.
The city has a population of about 22 million, so the realities of any big city are present--it is loud, smoggy, traffic is a mess. But where Denise lives on Zamelek it is more like a quiet urban neighborhood you can walk around most of the day. Importantly, the many trees offer shade.
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