My first day in Cairo was a quiet one, but I am on local time without any jetlag and looking forward to a rainy-day outing to the Egyptian museum tomorrow with a well-recommended guide named Nadir. We may also visit Coptic and Old Cairo and will likely make a plan for Giza and Saqqara for next week so I can see the local pyramids (Cheops was the pharoah).
Today brought two walks around the neighbvorhood, essentially the north end (above 26 July Blvd) of Zamalek, an island in the Nile River that is a wonderful old neighborhood housing several embassies and ambassadorial residences (Switzerland, Irtaq, Alergia, Oman, and Portugal were the ones I noticed.) and apartment houses. The International House Hunters property posted on Facebook turns out to be a library I can visit on a future day.
The weather is cooler than usual, in the high 50s and low 60s, which means more layers than I expected to use here. But a mostly sunny sky all day made up for that. I used my best judgment not taking a photo that would have been illegal. Picture this: Uniformed guard with long gun slung over his shoulder, lost in his cellphone while on duty outside some important place. Low alert day, no doubt. Actually in this neghborhood there are a lot of guys with guns on duty but I saw only one lost on his cellphone.
Also, every building seems to have a "bawab," or a porter, who keeps an eye on everything. This being a not-especially-important building, ours does not carry a long gun. But he does sleep under a pile of carpets on a couch behind the mailboxes. During the day it is neatly made up. This man is paid through fees assessed of all the building occupants. Not sure what he actually does, except be there, but he is likely more alert than the guy with the gun on his cellphone. And he never fails to greet everyone.
Sidewalks are treacherous so most people walk in the street and dodge cars. This sounds worse than it is. Actually there are so many cars on both sides of the street, parked and double parked, no vehicle can move too fast. In fact, quite a few cars have obviously not moved in a long time. Windshields are covered with dust (none marked "wash me" though) and parked so tightly together they could not possibly move without ramming either or both the vehicle in front and behind. Most of the tall buildings have small shops or offices on the ground and maybe first floor. On the nearest corner there is a small grocery, a chocolatier, flower shop, Costa coffee, a few restaurants, and an ATM that has not had any money in it for five days. In other words, except for the money part, everything you could need.
On the second walk I found a bank with a functioning ATM and so was able to get some Egyptian pounds. The current exchange rate is about 16:$1.00. This is not a convenient ratio for estimating the dollar value of anything. If I use the time-tested Erin S. Murray Math Company method for estimating 15% tips (back in the day), I come close.
My favorite shop so far is called Caravansary and features beautifully carved (as in filigree) furniture, linens, artwork, and very creative lighting fixtures. There were also many versions of what I have learned is called a "hamsa" or "hand of Fatima." Thanks to google and wikipedia, I learned this is an important middle eastern symbol used by both Muslims and Jews to ward off the evil eye and ensure prosperity. They come in a wide variety of styles, on posts, key chains, or as part of coat hooks. Although I am definitely not in the acquisition phase of life, I am tempted by these.
The best street food in Cairo is reputedly sweet potatoes roasted over a wood fire. We saw the vendor on the corner. He recognized Denise as a "regular" and we said we would be back after our walk to get some as part of our dinner. Alas, he must have sold out early because when Denise had the salmon and veggies going and I ran down to get the yams (5 Egyptian pounds or about 33 cents each), he was nowhere to be found.
On top of all this I also had my first Spanish by Skype lesson with my Montpelier teacher. We are moving right along. Last week reflexive verbs. This week gerunds, plus I got to talk about Cairo en español, as in Hay muchos autos en la calle.
A great start to a long-awaited visit.
 |
| The view from my window. Turns out it is a library. |
The weather is cooler than usual, in the high 50s and low 60s, which means more layers than I expected to use here. But a mostly sunny sky all day made up for that. I used my best judgment not taking a photo that would have been illegal. Picture this: Uniformed guard with long gun slung over his shoulder, lost in his cellphone while on duty outside some important place. Low alert day, no doubt. Actually in this neghborhood there are a lot of guys with guns on duty but I saw only one lost on his cellphone.
 |
| Bawab couch in our building |
Sidewalks are treacherous so most people walk in the street and dodge cars. This sounds worse than it is. Actually there are so many cars on both sides of the street, parked and double parked, no vehicle can move too fast. In fact, quite a few cars have obviously not moved in a long time. Windshields are covered with dust (none marked "wash me" though) and parked so tightly together they could not possibly move without ramming either or both the vehicle in front and behind. Most of the tall buildings have small shops or offices on the ground and maybe first floor. On the nearest corner there is a small grocery, a chocolatier, flower shop, Costa coffee, a few restaurants, and an ATM that has not had any money in it for five days. In other words, except for the money part, everything you could need.
On the second walk I found a bank with a functioning ATM and so was able to get some Egyptian pounds. The current exchange rate is about 16:$1.00. This is not a convenient ratio for estimating the dollar value of anything. If I use the time-tested Erin S. Murray Math Company method for estimating 15% tips (back in the day), I come close.
My favorite shop so far is called Caravansary and features beautifully carved (as in filigree) furniture, linens, artwork, and very creative lighting fixtures. There were also many versions of what I have learned is called a "hamsa" or "hand of Fatima." Thanks to google and wikipedia, I learned this is an important middle eastern symbol used by both Muslims and Jews to ward off the evil eye and ensure prosperity. They come in a wide variety of styles, on posts, key chains, or as part of coat hooks. Although I am definitely not in the acquisition phase of life, I am tempted by these.
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| Lovely welcome dinner sans street yam with my best and most long-serving pal. |
On top of all this I also had my first Spanish by Skype lesson with my Montpelier teacher. We are moving right along. Last week reflexive verbs. This week gerunds, plus I got to talk about Cairo en español, as in Hay muchos autos en la calle.
A great start to a long-awaited visit.
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