Thursday, March 23, 2017

ESL Congo - Part II

Not surpisingly, many people I have met here in Congo consider facility in English to be a career-enhancer. Some have hopes of employment here in positions that require functional bilingualism. Others want to continue their education in English-speaking countries, which invariably requires proficiency in English as demonstrated by either the Test of English as a Foreign Language (TOEFL) for the US or the International English Language Testing System (IELTS) in other countries. These comparable exams are the high-stakes gateways to English language higher education.

The Congolese American Language Institute (CALI) has a steady stream of hundreds of students who every ten weeks pay $200 plus $45 for books to study English. CALI uses Cambridge curricula and offers six levels of English instruction, plus a TOEFL prep course. They also have extra-curricular activities designed to provide varied opportunities to pratice English, such as a choir and English Club. Among the 40+ teachers, none is a native speaker but all are trained in teaching English.

One service they do NOT seem to offer, but which may be needed, is preparation for work. This might include interview skills, personal presentation, resume preparation, how to network, etc. Vanessa will soon complete her six levels at CALI and is basically untutored in any of these skills, believing she can't get  job without a university degree or five years' experience. At the same time, every day I see young people working in jobs and using English well--in coffee shops and other hospitality venues, for example. So there is some key to finding a first job that awaits discovery for Vanessa.

I recently observed CALI classes at two levels--one an advanced beginner class and the other a level 5 class (actually, Vanessa's class). This was a terrific opportunity for me to learn how other teachers approach the challenge of teaching English, especially on a ten-week time line. There is no time to waste to complete the curriculum for the level. While this system keeps the students moving at a pace, the pressure also makes those extra practice opportunities especially valuable.

As a favor to a friend, I am also coaching a Congolese physician on how to improve his TOEFL score. He took it the first time without much preparation and did not achieve a score that would permit him to apply to the public health master's degree program that is his goal. So we are working especially on the writing and listening parts of the test, which is where he thinks he needs the greatest improvement. This is somewhat new to me and so his need is also a favor to me to learn how to do this (there are whole courses available on how to do TOEFL prep, of course, both for the teacher/coach and for the person prepping for the test, but they are expensive).

As a Spanish student myself, I fully appreciate that it takes consistent study and the acceptance that learning another language well is a lifelong endeavor. Yes, I could probably get along in Mexico now as a tourist with what I have. But I would not be able to have very meaningful conversations, especially about ideas, yet. When I look at the demands of the TOEFL, it is hard to imagine obtaining or achieving an equivalent level in Spanish.


Weekend in Town with Granddaughters

My second weekend here, my soon-to-be son-in-law and two of his children traveled on the Congo River ferry services from Brazzaville for a visit. Because this involves an international boundary, passports and a lot of slow paperwork are involved on both sides, with fixers at each step in the process (meaning tips).

Naomie and Klavna in new dresses
from Cairo
Serguei (Momo), Naomie (age 8), and Klavna (age 5) arrived on Friday bearing a zillion hugs and kisses to share with me and Maman Stro. As someone who is late to the grandma game, I am just as enthusiastic with the hugs and kisses. Having missed the baby years of these girls, as "Mémé" I now get to help them learn English and buy them cute clothes and books. Is that a great deal or what?

We had a relatively relaxed two nights and two and a half days together. Stro has taught them about breathing (inspire...expire in French) and they are able to use that technique when they need to settle down a little. This included a couple of time-outs for Klavna at the swimming pool of a friend. Both girls are still learning to swim but are fearless in the water--which has both good and bad aspects. Klavna doesn't want to wear her PFD but neither will she stay in the shallow end. Naomie learned to flutter kick and almost has floating down. They had such a busy pool time that they fell asleep over their homework and then slept 12 hours at night. Conked.

I had a good time teaching them equivalent phrases using our hands. Holding out our right hands, we would say "please," and then hold out our left hand and say "s'il te plaît," for example. We followed this up with the old camp song "Head, shoulders, knees and toes."

We went to a family friendly Friday night place called Hal de la Gombe, where we enjoyed a couple of (smallish) roasted chickens, french fries, and fried bananas before a concert. We got rained out of the courtyard for eating but everything was dry by the time the music started. I am pretty surprised at the energy level the girls kept up during the music, dancing and running around. I think I have a lot to learn. Actually I learned from watching Momo on an early exercise walk we all took together. To keep them interested he had them doing squats and then push-ups, raising their knees, walking backwards. Channel all the energy!

The girls will attend The American School of Kinshasa (TASOK) next year, Klavna in first grade and Naomie in third. We have visited the school, which is set on 42 wooded acres, complete with athletic fields and a swimming pool, pottery studio, theater, and science labs. Their big brother Dolys will probably be in 10th grade. All of them will have support as English learners, but it will still be a huge transition from the French system to the American. The school has 330 students from pre-K through 12th grade, from 40 countries. Teachers come from eight different countries and most live in housing on the campus (so it's like a small Vermont town). International Day is understandably one of the BIG days of the year. Their ahtletic teams compete internationally and this weekend they were sponsoring a Model UN weekend with teams from other countries. Our visit made me want to go to school there.

Monday, March 20, 2017

The Staycation Begins - Les Pieds dans L'eau

Stro took this week off and we started with a full regime on Sunday (no surprises). First, an early morning walk on the river loop. Then a latte and croissant at a new-to-Stro place. First time for a croissant with za'atar, which as a person who favors the savory, I liked a lot. Then a trip to a place I have been hearing about for a long time, Les Pieds dans L'eau.


Located about a hour (with no traffic) out of town in the direction of the airport, LPDL is the creation of a couple who have Belgian connections and live here. They basically created a dammed up spot in the Nsele River (but not far from the Congo River) and lined it with white sand and sandbags (and a few tires). The area surrounding this waist-high water is shaded by a variety of trees and it is indeed possible to sit at the edge and put your feet in the water as well as to get all the way in and float around on inner tubes, both of which I enjoyed.

On Sundays the $25 admission includes a sumptuous buffet with green salads vinaigrette, very good potato salad and a host of Congolese favorites, such as rice, chikwanga (manioc), saka-saka and poulet a la moamba. They also grilled a lot of meat and chicken (what I call Congolese fast food). All the usual accompaniments were there, including and especially pili-pili or "pima." Accompanied by Tembo beer it was the perfect Sunday. Until the storm came.

With advancing dark skies, thunder, and lightning we decided we had enjoyed LPDL fully and would drive the sand track back out to the main road before it became impassable. Going home took an hour and a half that seemed like 3. We were driving into a sure-enough thunder boomer with sheets of rain sweeping the road and people crowded together under any available roofing material. What had been vibrant markets on the way out were now vacant. Cars traveled with their double blinkers and relatively slowly. The wipers were going as fast as they could and at times were ineffectual. The storm also brought strong winds and we got giggly remembering a time in Florida when we were in a hurricane and did not know it (Stro was about 7). Every pothole threatened the car's alignment if not the axle. In case you might be wondering why we did not pull off the road and wait it out, I just have to say that option would never occur to offspring of Bill Reinka. Stro did an amazing job of driving, which included maneuvering through a broken road after making a wrong turn--think washed out roads in Vermont. Thank goodness for four-wheel drive and then my GPS for getting us heading back in the right direction. The white RAV-4, known as Violet, performed well.

We arrived back home in time to get cleaned up to meet Vanessa at Kinshasa's new movie theater, called CineKin. The English version (with French subtitles) of Hidden Figures was showing at 5:15 to a pretty good sized crowd of mostly Americans and other ex-pats. The audience applauded the movie at the end. We headed out to the best pizza in town at O Poeta. 

Saturday, March 18, 2017

Esengi Maternity Center

new incubator
U.S. Taxpayers: for two small gifts of $6500 and $8500, you have contributed to better birth outcomes for mothers who live on the rural edge of Kinshasa. Those amounts, USAID small grants, bought an incubator and solar panels to assure back-up electricity for the Esengi Maternity Center in Kisenu. Our tax money should always be so well spent.


One day old and clothed in
many layers.
Every month, 200 babies are born at this center, whose name means “joy” in Lingala, the local tribal language. It is one of the few maternal and child health centers in the region. Women pay a total of about $15 for their pregnancy care and five years of well-child care. This rate is heavily subsidized by the Archdiocese of Kinshasa; no local government funding is involved.

Today I was privileged to ride along with the USAID director
and Stro for an official visit and “ribbon-cutting” (without the ribbon). We met the chief doctor, many nurses (no midwives), and church officials, and were followed around by members of the press and the embassy’s public affairs staff. More importantly, we met many mothers and babies, some only one day old. Despite the heat all of them were well wrapped in several layers of clothing and blankets. Plastic bags recycled as diaper wraps. Some babies had names, such as three-day old “Winner,” his mother’s first son. Others did not have names yet and would go home with birth certificates that said only “baby.”

Pharmacy--note old incuabtor
now storage
Proud mama
This center provides a full menu of well-child services (up to age 5) as well as maternity care. Over 150 prenatal patients were present for an educational session about mother-to-baby HIV transmission. There were about six babies who had been suffering malnutrition in a ward with their moms, most of them doing much better. A large group was attending a breastfeeding workshop, complete with cheerleading, singing dancing, and clapping nurses, and health educators. Laundry was drying everywhere—on lines, on bushes, on fences.

Women come here because their friends tell them they had a good experience. The faces of the mothers, whether shy or eager, show their great pride. Esengi is indeed a place of joy.


Maman Mapassi (mother of twins)

Whirlwind Week





Rilla - Eve - Stro at Patisserie Nouveau
A few glimpses into a whirlwind week:

Member of Parliament, Head of Party, Chair of Parliament's Socio-Cultuiral Commission - The Honorable Eve Bazaiba


Eve Bazaiba hails from Kisanangi Province, which is 1700 miles by boat or two hours by plane. She is the Executive Secretary of one of the opposition parties, and a force to be reckoned with in parliament and politics. She is a strong supporter of the December 31 agreement brokered by the Catholic Church between a coalition of opposition leaders and the Kabila government regarding elections. We had a lovely lunch after her English class at CALI but she was reluctant to practice her English much. She had a lot to tell Stro, a day ahead of the parliament's opening and did that in French. She made a gift of a pagne (see below) dress to me because she is so fond of Stro. Her own daughter is a physician in Kinshasa busy educating other physicians about new methods for testing cervical cancer.

A Touch of Pagne


Rilla with Ginette Martin, Canadian ambassador to DRC
Two local international groups collaborated on a major event called “A Touch of Pagne.” The International Women’s Club (mostly English-speaking) and Kinshasa Accueil (mostly French-speaking) raised cover $7000 to help two maternity centers in and around Kin. They put on quite a show, complete with door prizes (fabric from Woodin was a favorite) and a lovely continental breakfast donated by the brand-new hotel. In many ways, it felt very much like similar gatherings in Amsterdam and Yerevan. Get a group of women together who have more horsepower than they can use, and they raise money and otherwise organize for good.

Tablemates
Hundreds of women attended at $25 each. It looked like a veritable United Nations of Women. Half of my table wore head scarves, most attendees wore pagne (the local brightly colored fabric), either as a dress or an accessory. Friends of Stro greeted me at the door and got me seated next to a friendly English-speaker who turned out to be the Canadian Ambassador, Ginette Martin. She admired my pagne-accented clutch and told me she would like to have the person who made it come to a special event at her residence in April. Done. Stro sent her the info.

Madame Therese


Rilla and Vanessa
Madame Therese, robot engineer
After a delightful lunch with Vanessa Massamba (oldest granddaughter) following her English class at CALI, we both went to hear a woman introduced as Madame Therese. She is the Congolese engineer who invented the big traffic robot that governs (sort of) the largest intersections in the city. An animated speaker, Madame T told her story of becoming an engineer and how important the support of others, especially her father and husband, had been to her success. Ironically her own mother told her she could not be an engineer because she was a girl. CALI produced a huge audience for her talk and then invited all to stay for cake.


Rose Kuningu

Rose is a Wonder Woman. She is about 30, came to Kinshasa from her village about seven years ago and has done amazing things. First, with the support of her many siublings (her mom died when she was an infant), she completed  university in law. Now she works for the government highways department and is the only English speaker there. When business partners from RSA come to town she brokers all the conversations. But the amazing part about Rose is that after teaching herself a lot of English she finished quickly at CALI and then started the CALI Ladies Foundation for Excellence (CALFE). CALFE’s slogan is “Together, let’s promote girls and disabled children’s education.”







In their first year they helped 27 children by raising money for school fees, books, and uniforms, and by persuading their parents to let them go to school instead of producing income for the family. CALFE members visit the families once a month to be sure the child has remained in school, to see how things are going, and to answer any questions the parents have. All of this work is done by volunteers. Rose thinks volunteering is very important and she is committed to building civil society institutions here in Congo.

Little by little, they are putting in place the infrastructure needed to sustain the organization. Their website is www.calfe.org and they are hoping to set up a bank account that will accept donations made through the website. Rose collects used items from CALI students and they repair and/or resell or give to the children as needed. She visits CALI monthly to ask the students to donate. I am hoping to help her network with the IWC women and others who might be able to help her raise money and who might also like to volunteer. Her enthusiasm is contagious and her leadership skills are remarkable.

Wedding Pagne


Pepe - seamstress and designer
Making sketches
Most of Friday afternoon was taken up working with a seamstress/designer named Pepe on the dresses for Stro, me, and a friend, Rama, for the wedding on March 25. We (and many others) will be wearing dresses/shirts from the same fabric, or pagne (“pan-ya”). Pagne is a waxed cotton sold in 5 meter lengths, about one meter wide.

It is a tradition that for a wedding friends have the option of having clothes made with the same fabric. In large weddings, sometimes the bride’s family will have a pagne and the groom’s family will have a different one, and even the couple may have yet another all to themselves.

Working with the designer involves looking at a lot of pictures, thinking about how the chosen fabric will work with different designs, and then eventually coming up with combination of features—sleeves from this one, change this neckline thus, skirt from that one, bodice like this other one. Then with vocabulary and language gaps, it is essential to review the decisions carefully. Rama was indispensable in this part of the process. Words like hemline, gusset, darts, etc. do not come up in ordinary conversation. They form a specialized vocabulary that poses a challenge to the French-impaired like me and even to some French-fluent like Stro. The dresses are to be delivered for fitting on Wednesday afternoon.


Wednesday, March 8, 2017

ESL in Congo - Part I





Caroline, School Director
One of the best things about being interested in all things ESL is that I can check out the local scene wherever I go. This week I had an extraordinary opportunity to visit the English language preschool, Busy Bees. The school started many years ago when a British mom couldn't find a school for her child. She started one with the help of the British Embassy and now Busy Bees has 45 children in three groups, ranging from 22 months to 5 years. The staff ratios vary with child's age but are very high and there are several male teachers, which is unusual in preschool.
Nathaniel
Valentina

Best friends Kayla and Mima, 3
My first exposure was a morning of observing the classes as they went through their routines, including playground time and snack time. Perhaps half of the children come from English-speaking homes, but the school is conducted in English. Although many of the rest come from French-speaking homes, there are also children from Korea, Japan, Brazil, and probably other countries I did not hear about. They come five days a week from 8:30 to 11:30 and bring their own snacks and drinks.

The compound includes a large outdoor playspace with all sorts of equipment--sandbox, trampoline, swings, slides. There is also a small garden and a rabbit hutch. "Hoppy" roams freely and visits at snack time to pick up extra nibbles that drop on the ground. They had a goat but it disappeared and the director speculates someone had a lovely barbecue. The school sits in a much larger former manufacturing compound which is very parklike now (all manufacturing is gone).

As a grandma-wannabe I loved being with the little ones. I especially enjoyed watching the variety of personalities and ability levels (developmental as well as English) in each of the classrooms. The children are basically grouped by age, so within each group the range is wide. To help manage this, the class of about 15 is divided into smaller groups for activity sessions, perhaps 3 or 4 to a group with an adult. Still, I was pretty amazed at the level of chaos (and noise) the teachers manage.

After visiting on day one, I returned the next day to meet with the staff in their weekly staff meeting. My purpose was to share some general principles of ESL (which they are doing by default with half of their students) and to introduce some ideas that might be helpful. We had a great discussion and I was able to connect the principles with observations I had made the previous day of both children and teachers. Only two of the 10 teachers learned English at home and one of those was in a bilingual home. A few learned at the Congolese American Language Institute (CALI) and several learned in school or on their own. My timing was perfect. After this week they are on a two-week break.

Next up: coaching for the Test of English as a Foreign Language (TOEFL) and visiting CALI again.


Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Back in Congo

Mbuela peacock
With a certain amount of excitement, including temporarily lost luggage, a missed connection, and a rerouting, I arrived in Congo a day later than planned. The bonus was seeing the Nairobi airport for the first time (very upscale impressive) and flying Kenya Airways (highly recommended). My Cairo traffic experiences definitely helped ease me into the trafic scene here. I have only gasped out loud maybe three times so far. and am not staring at my feet this time. Stro is amazingly calm and capable in what looks like a totally chaotic road scene. She calls her strategy "collaborative driving." This requires moving with other cars, whether it is across six lanes of traffic or turning into a roundabout.

Grounds outside our door. Mini golf and
outdoor seating, pool in background.
Aquatic plant in garden
In celebration of my return, we took a road trip mostly due south to Kisantu and spent the weekend at Mbuela Lodge (aka Mbuela Lodge Polo Club). The trip was about 57 km but took 2.5 hours, a lot of which was getting out of town through thickly populated and heavily trafficked market areas. This route was National Highway #1, which goes on to the big river port of Matadi (thus container trucks on this two-lane, no shoulder road). The reward was clean air, QUIET, and peacocks. We got upgraded to a two room suite because the AC in our cabin was not working. Mbuela sits on a plateau and there was a lovely breeze most of the time we were there.

The Lodge offers a number of family-oriented activities and there are horses available for riding. It is heavily used during the days by school, corporate, and government groups for retreats and trainings. When we arrived there was a group of primary schoolchildren and a group of older teens having lunch under the trees. The most reliable food on offer turned out to be fish brochettes and french fries, but we also tried their grilled goat (chewy) and fried bananas.

Muryayo flower, smells like jasmine
Cathedral Church of Kisantu,
built in 1920 of brick
The Lodge is a few miles out of Kisantu, a regional center that boasts the largest church in Congo as well as a splendid botannical garden. Jesuits showed up here in the late 19th C. and one of them was responsible for creating the garden with 100 hectares of land. It is now twice as big and serves as a horticultural retreat, education center, nursery, and a showcase of plants and trees native and not. For example, there is a desert garden full of cactus varieties. A small and very dusty museum displays woods and fibers used in every day life as well as items created from them, such as baskets, mats, rat-catchers. We enjoyed our tour guide, who is a local guy trained as a horticulturist and who has been working at the garden for nine years.

The church was built in 1920 and is indeed enormous. We attended mass, arriving only a little after it began. The mass was said in Kikongo with the enthusiastic support of the choir and drums. Not more than about a quarter of the church space was filled, but that was still quite a few. I noticed people dusted their seats before they sat down. Ours was the only car visible. Everyone else had likely walked or come by moto-taxi (motorcycle taxi), perhaps some distance. We noticed several other churches along the way as well and many people walking in their Sunday best. I marveled at the young girls who dressed in white clothes and wore white shoes. This is dusty red clay country.

Our return trip was relatively uneventful, with less traffic on a Monday morning than there might have been on a Sunday. We took a relaxing walk on the river loop and then settled in for a glorious sunset, enjoyed from the balcony, avec insect repellent. Life is good.